Exploring the rich and historic food culture of northern Italy
The culinary heart of Italy...
Starting its journey in the Cottian Alps, the Po River stretches across northern Italy as it makes its way to the Adriatic Sea. Across the breadth of the Italian peninsula, the region is a foodie’s utopia.
By Mike McPhee
The importance of the Po and its expansive valley has been well documented since Roman times.
The “food valley”- as it is also known - had been the agricultural heart of the Roman empire, as it is now for modern Italy. I have come on a culinary tour in search of extraordinary cuisine, and a desire to expand my palette and learn about the traditional food culture of the region.
In the middle of this delectable valley full of flavours are the historic cities of Parma, Modena and Bologna. There are no less than 44 food products from the region that are protected and considered national treasures. Often rated as the best cheese in the world, Parmigiano Reggiano hails from Parma, as does prosciutto crudo di Parma. Balsamic vinegar originated in Modena and Bolognese sauce originated in the Bologna area.
The best cheese in the world, Parmigiano Reggiano hails from Parma.
The small-scale parmesan producer we visit is the epitome of farm-to-table. Happy looking cows graze behind the facility where their milk is turned into one of the wonders of the culinary world. The process is as extraordinary as the product. It takes over 550 litres to make one wheel. The ancient art is labour intensive, and the aging process can take years. A tasting of various ages reveals young and sweet to older and more complex. The youngest allowed is twelve months, but wheels can age forty months or more. Inspections are needed to receive the official stamp of Parmigiano Reggiano. The memory of an extraordinary parmesan cream sauce still lingers in my mind and calls to me.
Delicacy from Massimo Bottura’s new restaurant - Al Gatto Verde.
The sweet smell of aging balsamic mixes with meat being slowly cooked on a smoker in the courtyard. Tasteful décor is augmented by eclectic music in the background. I have come to Massimo Bottura’s new restaurant - Al Gatto Verde - with high expectations and a willingness to be enlightened. Bottura’s other establishment - Osteria Francescana - has three Michelin stars and was named the best restaurant in the world in 2016 and 2018. The historic estate includes accommodation in Casa Maria Luigia, a balsamic vinegar facility and, of course, the restaurant. Bottura is not there as he is off cooking for the G7, but head chef Jessica Rosval (who happens to be from Montreal) chats with us and explains her vision for the dishes. We dine in what can only be described as an art gallery. The service is simply the best I have ever experienced, and the cuisine is as well: exceptionally innovative and beyond expectations.
The 10th-century Castello di Tabiano crowns Italy’s green hills.
The green rolling hills in the shadow of the Apennine Mountains take on a fairy-tale appearance with a renaissance castle on top. We spend a few nights at one such castle and its fortified village. Even the local deli full of cured meats and cheeses seems like it should have a Michelin star. The owner tells me that the best age for Parmesan is 27 months.
Specializing in Franciacorta (sparkling wine from this region), Ca’del Bosco winery provides an experience that is far from the average wine tour. Full of surprising art, it is a full sensory exploration that is at times surreal. The unique journey ends with a tasting of their very special Franciacorta.
Antica Corte Pallavicina is famed for culatello aged in historic cellars.
Another extraordinary culinary experience awaits at Antica Corte Pallavicina. This 15th century farm is famous for culatello, a special salumi that is aged in the centuries-old cellars. We see Prince Charles’ special order hanging amongst the legs of future charcuterie. Chef Massimo Spigaroli’s family have been curing this delicacy for 150 years. Spigaroli chats and shows us the kitchen where the magic happens. The cuisine is as special as the setting.
Chef Massimo Spigaroli shares 150 years of family tradition in his kitchen.
A trip to the area would not be complete without a visit to the Ferrari Museum in Modena where one can appreciate the artistry and design of these thoroughbred steads. The local gelato shops in Modena are must-taste experiences as well.
The culinary heart of Italy has reshaped my view on what food and gastronomic experiences can be. I have gained insight into a world where leading edge creativeness meets ancient recipes and practises.
I am grateful for the experience provided by Cultour Italia, for their knowledgeable journey guiding me through this wonderland of culinary senses. I will return: my tastebuds demand it.
Your jet is ready when you are.
Photos courtesy of Mike McPhee (photo 2-8)