Discover Western Switzerland’s Natural and Cultural Wonders.
A herd of Swiss cows cross the alpine meadow full of spring wildflowers. Their bells are ringing and, combined with the chatty moos, they add a musical chorus to the mountain slopes.
The postcard-worthy scene is rounded out with typical Swiss style houses built high on the mountain sides in places that seem a bit impossible to build on. I am high in the Alps on the Swiss-French border. Lake Geneva is below, and the scenery is as stunning as I had hoped for.
By Mike McPhee
This region of Switzerland is sometimes overshadowed by the more well-known tourist destinations like the Interlaken region and the Matterhorn.
What I am discovering is that the eastern end of Lake Geneva is a lush and vibrant paradise where mountains meet lake in dramatic fashion. The towns of Lausanne, Vevey, La Tour de-Peliz and Montreux are strung along the lake, each one charming and inviting.
The area is also a UNESCO wine-making region. Stone terraces, dating back to the 12th century, rise from the shore of the lake and embrace the steep slopes. The vines and terraces seem to occupy every square foot of available land between the towns.
Vineyards and panorama on Lake Geneva.
Châteaux de Chillion rises out of the lake in all its splendor as it has for the last 900 years. This well-preserved medieval castle was the seat of the house of Savoy, and guarded the valuable trade routes along the lake and through the nearby mountain passes. Lord Byron paid a visit and carved his name in the dungeon. Even for those that do not consider themselves history buffs, a visit is interesting and photo-worthy.
Châteaux de Chillion standing guard on Lake Geneva.
One can cruise this part of Lake Geneva in style on a historic paddlewheel boat that stops at all the local towns and across the lake in France. The Belle Epoque fleet of steam powered boats are a unique experience that includes fine dining and Aperol Spritz on the deck. It’s a wonderful way to see the lake, mountains and terraced hillsides and to visit the various towns.
The nearby walled medieval town of Gruyère could be mistaken for a Hollywood set. Cobblestone streets, a well-preserved castle and quaint shops round out the pedestrian-only town square. A museum dedicated to the surrealist artist HR Giger seems out of place, but is the only museum dedicated to his work. Though not to everyone’s palette, it is fascinating.
Of course, one cannot go to Gruyère without sampling the Swiss national dish of which Gruyère cheese is a main ingredient. We are in the home of fondue and the local variety is simply the best I have ever had. Enjoying the meal with a local beer on the medieval platzl was a remarkable experience.
Traditional cheese fondue.
There are many options for getting from the lake up into the Alps for mountain meadow experiences. From Montreux, there is the scenic train to Rochers-de-Naye that steadily climbs to where you can hike ridges with panoramic views across the Alps and Lake Geneva. A few of the local ski resorts also have gondolas that run in the summer, taking hikers and sightseers to the high places. I thoroughly enjoyed doing an accessible hike in the alpine and the mandatory après-hike Swiss style beverages, charcuterie and treats that followed.
The funicular from Vevey ascends to Mont Pèlerin, offering stunning views of Switzerland’s landscapes.
Montreux is where the famous jazz festival takes place every July and many legends have made an appearance. The area also boasts several unique hotels and restaurants including Relais and Chateaux’s Grand Hotel du Lac, Le Mirador Resort & Spa and Hôtel Des Trois Couronnes & Spa. European bakeries and cafes round out the local offerings along the gorgeous waterfront boardwalk.
Overall, I find myself falling in love with this wonderfully civilized lifestyle along Lake Geneva.
The area gives new meaning to the term “lake life” and the temperate climate does agree with me. I am already dreaming of making it back; perhaps a winter ski experience is in order.
Your jet is ready when you are.
Images courtesy of Mike McPhee.