Dining and Drinking in the Most Striking of Settings
Welcome to Cuba’s capital, the matchless microcosm vibing to its own rhythm and epicurean flow within a cityscape featuring the retro allure of the 1950s.
The first "paladar" (privately-owned restaurant) in Cuba emerged in the early 1990s, following the collapse of the Soviet Union and subsequent economic reforms.
by Heidi Hollinger
Paladares (privately-owned restaurants) were initially required to be family-run, operate out of one’s home and limited to twelve guests.
Fast forward to today and Havana’s culinary scene is sizzling! Driven by new laws for MiPymes (Micro, Small, and Medium Enterprises), chefs can now bypass the inconsistent state-run system and source directly from private suppliers. This change provides access to a multitude of products and the bounty of the nation’s robust organic farms which thrive in rich crimson soil and a tropical climate.
Food
Cubans are masters in creating combinations of unique flavors and aromas with meticulous attention to detail. Their passion and ingenuity are pivotal in turning Havana into an emerging culinary hotspot, attracting food enthusiasts through the artistry of contemporary Cuban cuisine.
Our culinary adventure starts with philosophical chef-owner Raulito Bazuk. He converted his family home into a restaurant in 2017 and named it Grados, after the Hermann Hesse poem “Stages,” which he says perfectly sums up his life with its poignant metaphors. Raulito learned to cook by watching his mom and grandma create masterpieces with whatever was at hand due to shortages. “Cooking in Cuba is in some ways an act of resistance and survival. We are obliged to be imaginative and are always up to the challenge.”
The most iconic and essential gastronomic pilgrimage is to La Guarida where getting there is part of the experience: walking up two weathered grand marble staircases, past the Cuban flag on the patinaed wall, through the crisp white sheets drying on clotheslines and past the headless statue of a broken goddess.
La Guarida’s Octopus Carpaccio is legendary.
Founded by Enrique Núñez in 1996 in his family home, La Guarida attained mythic heights as the setting for Cuba’s seminal film—Fresa y Chocolate (Strawberry and Chocolate).
Follow Anthony Bourdain’s foodie odyssey to Santy Pescador, the island’s legendary sushi spot on the western flank of Havana. Set along the riverbank in the peaceful fishing village of Jaimanitas, this epic spot was once the humble home of beloved fisherman Santy. The paladar is now run by his four sons. Each succulent dish is a reflection of the day’s catch, brought in by their fishing boat which is often moored alongside the restaurant’s wooden terrace. The magic is echoed outside in Fusterlandia, a whimsical wonderland by sculptor, painter and ceramic artist José Fuster.
Anthony Bourdain raved about Santy Pescador’s sushi.
Drink
Cuba is the land of the mixed drink, the ideal backdrop for a cool one. The mojito, daiquirí, and Cuba libre all originated in Cuba and the island’s modern mixologists, known for their creativity, expertise, and use of high-quality, locally-sourced ingredients, are putting a new twist on age old classics.
Del Frente reinvents classics like the Mojito.
Ernest Hemingway’s old haunts – such as El Floridita and La Bodeguita del Medio - still draw the tourist crowd but have lost ground to spirited bars and rooftop terraces now sprinkled across town. From Old Havana westward to Miramar, culture and music remain integral to the ambiance.
The city’s most animated rooftop is a festive four-floored paradise featuring themed parties, live music, DJs and the spiciest sunsets. An eclectic boutique hotel with restaurants, cafés, bars and a concept store, Malecón 663 is a standout on Havana’s most famous seaside promenade, the Malecón. Crafted cocktails - with names as imaginative as their ingredients - include A romper el Coco (to rack one’s brains or literally to break the coconut), a piña colada with Black Tears spiced rum.
Sunset at Malecón 663, a gem on Havana’s iconic promenade.
Fábrica de Arte Cubano (FAC) is a creative hub and nightclub that has, since its launch ten years ago, become the epicentre of Havana’s modern cultural renaissance. This innovative and trailblazing venue is the envy of trendsetters from around the globe who flock here for the blend of Bauhaus and hot avant-garde Caribbean vibe. Housed in a repurposed factory, this multi-media maze of wall-to-wall art, performance spaces, bars and restaurants will take you step-by-step into a different dimension.
The art-filled Fábrica de Arte Cubano is Havana’s modern cultural hub.
Havana’s vibrant food and cocktail scene delivers infinite options for discovering the city’s spirit; El del Frente for unrivalled gin-based cocktails, Yarini for exclusive rums, cigars and a luxuriant rooftop, Melodrama for the intimate bar and the yucca fries, Bleco for its snazzy lounge and renowned pizza and Manteca for the homegrown music and panorama.
Is this Latin America’s next gourmet hotspot? Why ask Havana’s devoted fans when you can savour it firsthand?
Your jet is ready when you are.
Photos courtesy of Heidi Hollinger.